Coroico (in english)

47. 47 deaths since the beginning of the year. This is the panel i see across the blur window of the bus taking me to "La Cumbre", 4600m and 60km from La Paz. I shiver. I ll have to be really cautious, i was right to change my V brake pads.

I was thinking to cycle down the "La Paz-Coroico" road, also known as "The Deathroad" or even more ludicrous "The World´s Most Dangerous Road", with a guide. Going to one of the (allegedly) best companies organizing the tour made me change my mind; first I started speaking in spanish and they replied in american. I hate that. Then, although i had all my equipement, i would have to pay 65 dollars. Last but not least, they would not allow me to simply use the transport and go on my own. "You know, it is not called the "WMDR" for nothing...bla bla".

Took a taxi to Villa Fatima, negociated by the adorable landlord of my hotel, then a bus to La Cumbre. When they leave me, there is snow falling. Gawd it is gonna be cold! The fog is so dense that the visibility does not exceed 75m. I try to keep my speed to 40 kph.

The beginning is on asphalt, very nice landscapes but a lot of rain...i chat with the custom´s officer, who is surprised to see one solitary biker. After 30 km of descend, i am happy to find the "camino viejo", the original ripio road. The scenery is spectacular, a mistake would leave no chance of survival! Here and there, flowers and crosses pave the road.

I catch up with a group of "gringos". I chat with a local whose job is to maintain the road, he gives me a lot of advice and I offer him a salteña (kind of croissant with veggies and meat). Looking at the guides rushing down the slopes gives me an idea of the speed i can make...before i did not know the traffic or anything, but now i can speed up. I go faster and faster, overtake groups (which i found where going rather fast!) to follow the guide closely. I am happy, although the bike does not have proper tyres, i see i can do some proper mountainbiking. The guides wonder who i am! After all my problems with the bike, it is a true reconciliation.

Globally, i can say that with good brakes and with an intermediate level in mountainbiking, it is safe to do it on your own. Of course, the better you are, the more fun you´ll have!

Then, the groups took their bus to do the 7km ascend before Coroico. I biked it, it was quite enjoyable.

Once in Coroico, I find an enchanting place, Hostel Sol y Luna, with huge gardens, beautiful flowers, incredible view and hammocs. Perfect to relax for one night from the energy of La Paz. I spend the evening with Nico and Lola, a sympatic French couple who advises me to change hotels in La Paz, and go to El Carretero, kind of hippie hotel i immediately like.